|
|
By
Phil Lewis |
|
So there I was, working away Queen Live at Wembley'86
blaring away in the background, when the phone rang.
There was that slightly hollow sound on the line that told me it was that
was Bob Watts, calling from the other side of the 'Have you still got your camera, Phil?' he asked. 'Yeeeees?' I replied cautiously, wondering what was
coming next. 'How do you fancy taking some stage-by-stage photos of
making a miniature for a magazine article?' There was an initial feeling of panic. Could I remember
which bit to look through? Had the cars been using the camera case as a dirt
tray? Did I know where the bits were? 'Yes ... no problem,' sez 1, 'I'll give it a go.' As it
happened, I could remember which bit to look through, the cats hadn't disgraced
themselves (for once), and the close-up attachments weren't hidden too badly.
So, over a period of about a week, I alternated between modeling and
clicking away as I worked on some new figures for Earthdawn. It's difficult taking pictures of something of this
size which hasn't got the wonderful colour contrasts that a well-painted
miniature has, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed that you'll be able to see what
I'm talking about over the next page or so. The prints I'm looking at are
fine-honest! First of all, don't be fooled into thinking, every
miniature designer works to this specific method.
Although there are similarities in the way many of us construct a model,
there are also many variations of style and technique. With luck, we'll be able
to show you some of these in future issues of Forge. This is the way I set about it:
|
|
STAGE BY STAGE MINIATURE
|
|
| 1)
The initial armature, made from three pieces of wire, is soldered
together. The only careful measurement at this stage is for the gap
between the 'hips' & shoulders'.
Obviously, for a larger figure such as a Troll, the gap would be
increased accordingly. I try and keep a record of all the different
sized armatures I use - this saves time and ensures consistent sizes. |
![]() |
|
2) The wire armature is now bent into shape. The
lengths of the 'thighs' and 'shins' are marked on the side and a thin skin of
putty is worked onto the figure. The positions of the knees and waist are marked
onto this skin. It's quite possible to ignore this stage and go straight on to 3) where the
|
![]() |
|
|
| 4) Time to start on the miniature properly, as the
boots and trousers are roughly formed over the model's legs. |
![]() |
| 5) Creases and folds are worked into the putty. The
tops of the boots are added and creased as well.
As the picture of Garlthik I'm working from shows lots of stitching, I've
decided to give his trousers some similar detail. Lines are pressed into the
putty with the sharp edge of a modeling tool. Small holes are pricked into the
putty on either side of these lines and, finally, some very finely rolled pieces
of putty are cut and pushed into the holes. Although you in can only see the
stitching around the figures groin I've also added some down the seams of the
trousers as well. |
|
|
6) With
the arms lowered, the jerkin is put on as a rough shape with an indentation to
mark where the belt will go.
|
![]() |
|
7) Creases
and detail are added to the jerkin. Once the putty has dried the arms are
measured, cut and bent into shape. The hands are flattened with the aid of a
small hammer prior to being bent into position. A thin skin of putty is worked
onto the wire. Finally, the neck is
chopped down.
|
|
| 8) On with his head!
There are simple ways of doing faces as well as rather complex ones.
Garlthik's is one of the more complex, and I don't think space will allow
us to go into much detail for now. Suffice
to say that, underneath the detail, the face is a ball of hardened putty whose
shape is roughly halfway between a sphere and an American football (that's
almost a Rugby ball for the dozen people in the UK who've never seen American
football). |
![]() |
| 9) Now for the sleeves:-
As before, the putty is put on as a rough shape and then worked to model
the creases. More stitches are
added to the jerkin where the sleeves emerge. |
|
| 10) One of the simplest jobs for this figure - adding
the hair. This simply entails pressing a small amount of putty into the desired
position and texturing it with the edge of a modeling tool. |
![]() |
| 11) &
12) Not far to go now! A short piece of brass tubing is soldered into position to be
used as the core of his tankard. Detail
and the hand are added. The sheath of Garlthik's knife is cut out o hardened
putty and stuck into position. |
|
|
|
| 13) &
14) 'His fang's too small,' says the wife ...
curses, she's right! Garlthik's tooth is enlarged with a tiny amount of putty
shaped over the top of the original. Lastly, detail is added to the knife's
sheath and the right hand is modeled. |
|
| All that's left to do now is remove the miniature from
the cork and put the tab under his feet. Right, Bob..... what's next? So there you have it. A quick guide of how a miniature
is made. Now I'm sure there are
many of you reading this article who wish we could go into even more detail.
After all, we've barely been able to scratch the surface of how a figure
is designed. Let us know if there are any parts of the article you'd like
|
![]() |
|
If you decide to try your own hand at miniature
designing, remember there are two things that you'll need that no amount of
anatomy book, modeling tools, etc. will help you with: Practice and patience. Good luck! |
|